Car & driving
How far can an e-bike go on one charge?
Real kilometers from your e-bike battery based on Wh, assist level and terrain — plus cost per 100 km.
Quick answer
E-bike range claims — "up to 120 km!" — are the WLTP of cycling: measured in Eco mode, on flat ground, with a light rider and no wind. The honest math is watt-hours divided by consumption per kilometer, and real consumption clusters tightly: about 5 Wh/km in Eco, 7 in the Tour mode most people actually ride, 9 in Sport, 12 in Turbo. Hills multiply everything — rolling terrain adds ~30%, real mountains 60%. A 500 Wh battery in Tour mode on flat ground is thus a genuine 70 km bike; the same battery in Turbo in the hills is a 30 km bike. Both numbers are true; only one appears in the brochure.
Estimated real range
~71 km
- Consumption
- 7 Wh/km
- Charging cost per 100 km
- ~$0.19
Real-world consumption runs 5-12 Wh per km depending on assist, plus up to 60% more on climbs — figures here already include rider weight around 75-85 kg on a city/trekking e-bike. Headwind, knobby tires, low pressure and cold (batteries lose 15-25% below 5 °C) all eat kilometers. Manufacturers’ "up to 120 km" claims assume Eco on flat ground; the Tour figure here is the honest daily number. Charge cost assumes €0.25/kWh.
How it works
What the spec sheet also won’t say: cold costs 15-25% below 5 °C (store the battery indoors, mount it just before riding), underinflated tires and knobby treads each nibble 5-15%, and batteries age like phone batteries — expect ~80% of original capacity after 500 full charge cycles, which is 3-5 years of normal use. The economics stay absurd regardless: at €0.25/kWh a full charge costs 12-15 cents, so 100 km of assisted riding costs about 20 cents — roughly fifty times cheaper than the same kilometers by car.
Frequently asked questions
How far does a 500 Wh e-bike battery really go?+
Realistic figures: ~100 km in Eco on flat ground, ~70 km in Tour, ~55 in Sport, ~40 in Turbo — drop 25% for hilly terrain and 40% for mountains. If your commute is 20 km round trip in Tour, a 500 Wh battery covers 3 days per charge with margin. For all-day mountain rides, either a 750+ Wh battery or a second battery in the pack.
How should I charge the battery to make it last?+
Same chemistry, same rules as phones, but the stakes are €400-800: avoid parking it at 0% or 100% for days (store around 50-60% if not riding for weeks), charge indoors at room temperature, and prefer topping up over deep full cycles. Never charge a battery that’s still freezing from the ride — let it warm up an hour first. Original chargers only: e-bike battery fires are rare and almost always involve third-party chargers or damaged packs.
Why is my e-bike range much lower than advertised?+
Run the checklist: assist level (advertised figures are Eco; most people ride Tour/Sport — that alone is -30-45%), terrain, tire pressure (check monthly, it’s the most neglected 10%), headwind, total weight with bags and child seat, cold, and battery age. If range dropped suddenly rather than gradually, have the battery diagnosed — most brand dealers read cell health in minutes, and one weak cell group drags the whole pack down.
Is it worth buying a second battery or a bigger one?+
Do the math before spending €400-800: if 90% of your rides fit the current battery, a charger at the office or a 30-minute lunch top-up (fast chargers refill ~50% in that time) often solves the remaining 10% for a fraction of the price. The second battery makes sense for regular all-day tours, cargo bikes on hills, and couriers. When buying, check that the battery is a current model — packs for discontinued mounts get expensive and then extinct.
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